The aesthetics of white seem to cut across class and community. Be it the deep southwest, with the predominantly ‘white’ state of Kerala to West Bengal in the east. Be it the range of coarse, weighty, strong drapes for the not so privileged, to fine counts for the well-to-do. In kerala, the wedding saree was often just kora (unbleached), unwashed and sprinkled with haldi (turmeric) and kumkum (sindoor/vermillion) to mark the auspicious occasion. Earlier in Bengal too, a newly wedded bride had to make an appearance in a similar white saree but with red border to mark her life long journey at her new home.
Every Bengali will own at least one and likely very many ‘laal paar shada sari’ aka a white saree with a red border. Tracing back in time to appreciate the real timeless appeal of this style, I went back to the adi (first) version of Bengalis and the zamindars (feudal lords). The women of the aristocratic families draped in sarees of the finest silks and cottons with a broad red border. The breadth of the border was a symbol of their power and fortune. The broader borders were draped for the more senior members who have earned their place in the domestic hierarchy. Their saree draping style is still alive and called the ‘atpoure’ style. It is the authentic name for saree draped in Bengali style. We often teased our grand moms and aunts by labeling this typical look of atpoure style with a broad red border and the essential red bindi, shakha pola, shidoor and alta (I just named all the quant signature of a married Bengali women) – as the ‘ginnima’ look. In my view, many words from our eclectic Bengali dictionary should not be translated in apprehension of misinforming the true essence of the word.‘Ginni mas’ also chewed paan(beetle leaves prepared to their highly individual taste) .
They possess meticulous skills in managing their own terrain. They have an eagle’s vision, a hawk’s sight and an owl’s wisdom and literally safe kept the key to every family member’s heart or not. While all I am saying is well meaning complements to the zamindar women and their descendants, privately I feel the liberally referred to disorder of compulsive obsession (OCD) over anything might have emerged from ‘ginnimas’ and their pursuit for perfection. Not entirely a proven theory but my thoughts.
The colour red is charged with almost similar emotions across communities in India. Bengal being the home to a diaspora of weaves and textiles, a homogeneity rests on the marked preference for the auspicious red border, with or without ornamentation in innumerable variations of width and texture. The laal paar echoes the red of the sindoor, the lusture of alta, colour of passion and sacrifice that pervades the festivities of Bengal specially Durga puja.A lovely variation of the laal paar is sheete sindoor which is akin to the vermillion in the parting of a married woman’s hair – symbolized by a band of red between two bands of black.
As a designer I am constantly trying to discover, re-discover and express my identity in my designs and styles. Conflicts arise often between the traditional and aspirational value and I hope they are expressed lucidly on my sarees. While working on my designs, I am heavily influenced by my milieu.I perceive beauty in the familiar and express through my individualistic pursuits.
My Collection of Laal Paar sarees are shoots of passion grounded on social, aesthetic and cultural roots. The motifs are inspired by either alpana designs which is rangoli done with a rice past on our floors and stair ways in Bengal or motifs that are usually inscribed on a Bengali wedding invitation like the palanquin or palki.
The prints are all Block prints. The base of the saree is tussar mixed with munga silk. The border is a broad gold woven border to add that touch of zamindari style.And lastly, I will share a few Laal Paar sarees I have always seen on my mother and love to drape them myself when I can. They have inspired me, comforted me. I am loving them back and of course spreading the love in my work.
Glossary of terms:
Sindoor: Vermillion streaked on the parting of married women’s hair.
Alta: A red coloured liquid applied like a paint along the edge of the feet and toes.
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